Spring/Summer 11

A new kind of aesthetics is created. Full and empty volumes alternate. Decorations reminding of the Baroque era appear on soft and pure structures. A relaxed and casual femininity trying to avoid references to any particular style, although vague quotations from the Japanese 90s minimalist period or from a certain - very YSL - 70s glam period emerge at times. Silhouettes are fluid, shapes are wide and elongated. A scenographic exuberance comes out in some constructions, where printed fabrics with neoclassical motifs and miniatures are distanced by tapestry-inspired designs. Extremely light and aerial fabrics like feather-weight silks are gathered, creating a play on light and shades. The silk linen crepe, with its coarse and light effect, is used in the most arduous tailored pieces. Ultra-linear and picturesque suits and combinaisons adjust to the figure through knotted panels in pure, in ultra-beaten poplin or multi-coloured taffetas. Some conceptual anomalies, like long dramatic styles for daywear or even beachwear and the classic oversize chemisier for eveningwear, refer to an interpretation of the collection in a baroque-style: emphasising defects and playing on contradictions in a theatrical way. The use of colours recalls to the paintings of those times: particularly to Velazquezs and Rubens. The cold whites of marble and stucco, rock, dark green and brush strokes of ochre, coral red and pink.

 

ita / eng