FALL/WINTER 10/11The typical play on contrasts featuring Albino’s style evolves into dualism this season: the sacred and the profane, spirituality and carnality. The artificiality of certain atmospheres as well as hints of ironic oddness evoke ‘60s and ‘70s movies. Particularly, feminine characters in Fellini’s “Il Casanova” who encase the collection’s spirit and two-face personality: unreal women at the mercy of their own instincts. Silhouettes are trapezoidal and emphasised by the play of pleats and plissé alternated with thinner, pencil outlines. The austerity of the necklines and of small but well-constructed shoulders contrasts with the sensuality of slashes showing the legs and monastic-inspired cape dresses with lengths way beyond the knees. Women’s dresses are made with outerwear fabrics, graphically manufactured and cut with plays of chiaroscuro and trompe d’oeil. Fabrics are full-bodied and almost always opaque. Many are the qualities of double-faced fabrics: from masculine armature fabrics to crêpe and felted wool cloth. Several jacquards are used: from micro wafer designs to glossy/matt felted wool stripes and the embossed effect of matelassé satin. Fabrics are often coupled with neoprene for a surreal effect. Designs recall churches’ rosettes and are printed on light Mikado or on matt technical satin. The colour choice focuses on neutral shades interspaced by chiaroscuro. Wool white, cream, chocolate, caramel and black. Highlights of brass grey and light blue complete the colour palette. |
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